"Irreverent and very playful" is how co-owner Fran Leaper describes the vibe. "Think Thailand naff with a Melbourne edge."

Chef and co-owner Mitch Townrow (ex-Longrain, Newmarket Hotel) heads up the kitchen and is joined by Nik Page (Easy Tiger) and Perrin Bowman (Albert Park Hotel). The rum-glazed pork hock is a sticky delight, while desserts such as kaffir lime pie with coconut meringue - a Thai take on lemon meringue pie - are the bomb dot com.

Shared dining and banquets are a focus, and there's an astroturfed back bar and courtyard for relaxed "banh mi and beers".

Open Wed-Thurs 6pm-late and Fri-Sun 5pm-late.

LadyBoy, 394 Bridge Road, Richmond, 9421 3206, ladyboydining.com.au