It was the wind that had bite that wintry Sunday, as about half a dozen dogs nosed their way around a truffiere in search of the elusive culinary specialty.
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An annual event, the Blessing of the Truffle Dogs in Tarago was again conducted by the Right Reverend Tom Frame of the Mulwaree Anglican Parish.
This was no mere walkies around a wooded field, but an intensive search for “black gold” in the heavily protected paddock, where the truffles grow under tree roots.
The Blessing of the Truffle Dogs is the official start to the three-month-long Canberra Region Truffle Festival, heralded as a time of “foraging, finding and feasting”.
The blessing has long been hosted at Tarago Truffles by property owners Denzil and Anne Sturgiss and their son Matt, and two trusty truffle dogs, Dusty and Joker.
Truffle harvesting is done in wintertime as the frosts are said to help fully mature the black winter truffle. The blessing just happened to be on June’s coldest day so far.
A small crowd of two dozen or so, and their dogs, gathered in the truffiere, where Reverend Frame welcomed everyone, then blessed the dogs and, through prayer, sought the blessing of the harvest.
He recalled a time when a food such as the truffle was an unknown quantity, but, once discovered and enjoyed, delighted the senses.
He suggested this awakening could be likened to an epiphany.
The group of dogs and people then split into smaller gatherings of six or so, and began the hunt through the equilateral rows of trees.
Dusty, resplendent in a red coat, had leaped onto a broad-based fence post, and took the lead in the pack, eager for a find.
The human nose needs to be close to the truffle to truly appreciate its pungency, but the dogs can scent them through the very soil.
Each of the dogs on the day had attended previous truffle hunts, and gave very clear indications to their owner when the scent was on.
It was then up to those with two legs to get down and scrabble in the soil as the four-legged looked on, unearthing quite a few finds.
The Tarago truffiere’s variety, Tuber melanosporum, originates from the Perigord region of France.
It is the fruiting body of an underground fungus, found primarily under oaks and hazelnuts.
Some suggest it has an unappealing form and colour, but to this eye it is best described as resembling a black coral formation.
After an hour or so – even a little longer for the well-rugged up – the group returned for a hot lunch and hand-warming by the log fire.
Dishes were, of course, infused with tiny tendrils of truffle.
Upcoming truffle hunt dates include: June 23, 24, 30; July 1, 7, 8, 21, 22, 29; August 4, 5, 11, 12, 18, 19, 25, 26.
The hunt includes truffle tastings and an education session, from 10.30am to 1.30pm.
Costs: $80 adult, $20 children (6-16 years; 5 and under, free).
Tarago Truffles is at Gap Hills, 173 Willandra Lane, Tarago. Telephone: 4849 4605
Ainsleigh Sheridan
Editor, Southern Tablelands - Braidwood Times - Crookwell Gazette - Goulburn Post - Post Weekly - Town & Country Magazine - Yass Tribune
Editor, Southern Tablelands - Braidwood Times - Crookwell Gazette - Goulburn Post - Post Weekly - Town & Country Magazine - Yass Tribune
