Let's go right back to January for one of the biggest openings of the year. Just months after becoming Canberra's only two-hatted restaurant, the team behind Ainslie's Pilot opened Such and Such in the city. Back then they were keen to "flex different muscles", by year's end they'd flexed so much that Arnold Schwarzenegger would feel at home. We knew it would be fabulous but it caught the nation's eye as well. In July it was shortlisted in the Gourmet Traveller best new restaurant awards and Dash Rumble was also nominated for the restaurant personality of the year. In October, it was named best new restaurant in the Good Food Guide Awards, beating out all the NSW venues. One of Australia's most exciting new places of the year and it's right here in the city.
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It was a big year for Ben Willis. After closing Aubergine in late 2022, he had his fingers in two DOMA Group pies. He opened fine-diner Louis in June, sleek with a predominantly European menu. In November, Med opened its doors, a celebration of relaxed, casual and fun dining, inspired by the vibrant Eastern Mediterranean culinary culture. Are there any more vacant rooms in the Realm precinct he can overhaul?
An opening which made us feel nostalgic and excited all at the same time was Koto. The fine-dining Japanese restaurant transformed the site of The Lobby restaurant, in the heart of the Parliamentary Triangle, into something you might find in Kyoto. From the Japanese-inspired garden to the intricate sashimi, a visit is highly recommended. And in the same precinct, work on the Lawns of The Lobby is well underway.
A bit further afield, winemaker Nick O'Leary opened Heywood, a stylish cellar door and restaurant, on the family's Wallaroo property. Now there's no better place to sip a glass of his riesling than outside on one of the tables while watching the sun set over the Brindabellas.
Back into Braddon, Wine Room felt like you were stepping into the living room of your coolest friend. Great wine list, tasty bites and some tunes. Casual, yet elevated.
By May, the behemoth which is Tiger Lane was finally complete in all its neon glory. Joining Taki and Inari were a handful of hawker-style stores and Mrs Wang, with executive chef Gerald Ong at the helm, provided an oasis of calm.
The Rabble Group came home late in the year, transforming the Alinga Street corner of the Sydney Building, with Fun Time Pony, Bada Bing Dining and Al's Deli and Diner.
Other openings that satisfied some hunger included Agostini's at Lark Hill, Margot, Luna, Fonda Mexican, Senn Noods, Cartel Taqueria, BanMe, El Jannah, Oh No!, Cabo and Peonee. Check them out before 2024 hits us hard. I'm sure we missed hundreds more.
So long, farewell ...
Ignoring all the financial implications of the Pialligo Estate collapse in March, Canberra lost a very unique paddock-to-plate dining experience. In January, executive chef Mark Glenn escorted me around the estate ahead of the launch of their Chef's Table experience. By April, the tomatoes were rotting on the vine.
After eight years in Narrabundah, the team from XO bid us farewell. It was almost impossible to get a table once they announced the closure in May, ahead of an October final service. We went in for one final review, knowing they were closing, such was our love for the place. Chris Hansen summed it up perfectly when he said "restaurants like this are about so much more than a score".
The Mee Sing Chinese Restaurant in Lyneham was one of Canberra's longest-standing when it closed in June after 58 years. Helen Ching grew up in the restaurant, which her parents Peter and Briggata opened in 1965. It was good, old-fashioned Chinese in a suburban shopping centre, where it was all about family and community.
That was the case, too, at Daana which closed in July. The Curtin Indian restaurant was a second home for husband-and-wife team Sunita and Sanjay Kumar and the pair racked up several awards over the years with their innovative menu.
In August, Lilotang said sayonara and in October Tipsy Bull in Braddon called last drinks.
In June, Christophe and Josephine Gregoire put Bungendore's Le Tres Bon on the market to focus on a new venture hosting gourmet travel adventures.
Maestral in Weston Creek was another family venture that came to an end, closing down after 20 years.
Karen Hardy
I've covered a few things here at The Canberra Times over the years, from sport to education. But now I get to write about the fun stuff - where to eat, what to do, places to go, people to see. Let me know about your favourite things. Email: karen.hardy@canberratimes.com.au
I've covered a few things here at The Canberra Times over the years, from sport to education. But now I get to write about the fun stuff - where to eat, what to do, places to go, people to see. Let me know about your favourite things. Email: karen.hardy@canberratimes.com.au
